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He’s known as Hagi, better known as the owner of Mamacita’s restaurants. Meet the Schreiner alumnus who came to America from Iran as a teen-ager—and eventually turned Tex-Mex into big business. |
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| By Lane Tait In September of 1976, Hossein "Hagi" Hagigholam ’83 was an 18-year-old Iranian who had just come to the United States to study civil engineering. He intended to get his degree and return home to Tehran. Today, he is a naturalized American citizen who knows more about the dining habits of Central Texans—especially their Mexican food-mania—than almost anybody you could name. Hagi is an entrepreneur who has created Mamacita’s, a string of five successful Mexican restaurants (San Antonio, Kerrville, Fredericksburg, New Braunfels, and San Marcos, so far) that continue to spring up across the Hill Country. What happened in between is a fascinating story that includes a revolution, a war, a dream, President Jimmy Carter, love and a leap of faith. His tale also has Schreiner at its hub. Born into a large Iranian family, Hagi has 14 brothers and sisters. “My father says that Mother always had three children with her at all times: one by the hand, one on her hip and one in her belly,” he laughs. “And it was true!” Even surrounded by family, Hagi always seemed to be looking to the west. “From the time I was a boy, I wanted to come to America,” Hagi says. “This is a funny story!” Hagi chortles. “I bought my ticket and got on the flight for the next leg of my trip. But it landed 20 minutes after taking off! I’d been told that New York to Houston took something like four hours. What happened? “Well, I got off the plane but I couldn’t make anyone understand me. It was a weekend, I think, and it took three days to locate a translator! I spent a couple of nights in the airport, eating hot dogs and sleeping in chairs." Wasn’t he upset? Uncomfortable, at least? Hagi laughs. “You know, when you’re 18, you don’t care about that. I was in the U.S.!” As it turns out, he was in Boston. “In my native language Houston rhymes with Boston. That’s where the ticket agent thought I wanted to go!” Now that he’d learned to say “Heeuuuuston,” Hagi was ready for the next challenge—three months of English lessons in the slow-talking, big-hair and big-oil capital of the country. “In Houston, out of the class of 20, 18 were Iranians. With so many Iranian students, the teacher learned to speak our language, but we didn’t learn much English. I knew it was something I needed to do, though.” The next stop for Hagi and his four Iranian roommates was Beeville College. “I guess the agencies in Iran that were helping us get those letters of acceptance from American colleges found it easy to deal with Beeville College,” Hagi says. “When we arrived there, they had about 200 Iranians already enrolled. “I said, guys, we need to learn English and to do that we’re going to have to go to a college where we’re the only Iranians.” One of the roommates said he had a cousin who had gone to Schreiner College in 1974 and he had been the only Iranian in the whole school. “I said, heck, if that’s the case, that’s where we should go. So, we put everything we owned in the one car we had between us and drove to Schreiner. “We enrolled in the English-as-a-Second-Language program run by Mrs. Saucedo and she made sure that we finally began learning English.” After three months of it, Hagi took up the regular college curriculum. Meanwhile, Hagi was making his own mark on the athletic department as one of the founding fathers of Schreiner soccer. He and his Iranian friends, an Arab and a Chilean missed soccer so much, they wanted to form a Schreiner soccer team and compete with other colleges in the area. “It was so funny,” he remembers. “I went to Mr. Chambers, who was also a basketball coach at the time. He told me there was no budget for a soccer team. He agreed to coach us, though, and since buying soccer uniforms was out of the question, he got us some old basketball uniforms to wear. The team didn’t last too long though—we weren’t very good,” he says with a grin. Indeed, the grainy black and white images show a group of enthusiastic young men sporting ’70s-era haircuts, and in one of them, a youthful Hagi is literally flying horizontally through the air to block the ball. His expression of concentration is one familiar to those who know him today, as is his willingness to take a risk in order to achieve a goal. Hagi’s social life was going well, though. He had met Ruth Torres at Kerrville’s student hot spot, The Chalet, and they began dating. He was earning spending money and learning the food-service business from the ground up by working in entry-level positions at Kerrville restaurants Grandma’s House, Fara’s and Acapulco. While Hagi was in the U.S., the simmering political unrest back home in Iran had escalated. In 1979, a revolution deposed the Shah, and soon after, the Ayatollah Khomeini became that country’s leader. In November of 1979, when the American hostages were taken at the embassy in Tehran, everything changed for Hagi and the many other Iranian students in the U.S. whose student visas had expired. President Carter called for every one of them to leave the country by April 20, 1980. Hagi was devastated.
“The world just shattered on me, because now I had to go back. I’d learned English, started earning money, and I was dating Ruth. The only way I could stay in the country was if she married me—and she wouldn’t marry me. She said, ‘Look, I’m 20 and you’re 21. We’re young and you Hagi truly was caught between a rock and a hard place that year. Iraq invaded Iran in the fall of 1980 and began what turned out to be an eight-year war. Because Iran’s population was three times that of Iraq, its military engaged extensively in “human-wave” assaults against Iraqi Hagi remembers he even asked his history professor, Ed Wilbourn, if he would adopt him to allow him to stay in the country. Wilbourn was “I finally talked Ruth into marrying me,” Hagi says. “You talk about some begging! Her parents gave their permission because of the difficult “I tell people we got married so I could have a green card, but we fell in love afterward. And we’re still married after 24 years.”
“My dream is to open a Mamacita’s in Austin in 2006, and eventually in Dallas, and Houston…but we’ll do it one at a time. I don’t open a restaurant until I have its general manager ready. The restaurant business is the riskiest business I know,” Hagi says. “So many people expand too fast, and they go down.” Hagi and Ruth have two children now: a nine-year-old daughter, Roya—it is Iranian for “dream,” and a son, Nicolas, age 5. Both are adopted. Hagi says, “The miracle of “I’m a Muslim, but Ruth and the children are Catholic. I want my children to grow up as Christians.” Isn’t it hard to reconcile the two religions? “It’s not hard for me,” Hagi says. “They’re the same. The roots of Islam and Christianity are in the same religion, the same God. Everything Islam talks about, Christianity talks about. I think of myself as a Muslim and a Christian.” Because of the changed political situation and the Iraq war, Hagi was not able to go back to Iran for 16 years. Now, he goes to visit his family there three times a year, but says he is always ready to come home to the U.S.A. “When I go to Iran, I’m always happy, but when it’s time to come home, I’m always happier. It reminds me to appreciate what I have here. “It isn’t easy for my family to visit, but my father does. He was here six months ago, as a matter of fact. My mother was able to come see me in 1984, but she passed away when she returned to Iran.” Hagi has found a way to honor his mother that he thinks would please her. He founded Khavar Foundation in Iran and named it for her. Its mission is to help widows and orphans. Hagi explains, “In Iran, if you are a widow, nobody Coming from such a different culture, one would think it would be hard to adapt, but Hagi dismisses the thought. “You know, when you stay somewhere more than four or five years, especially at a young age, you get ‘adopted.’ It becomes easy, especially when it’s a lifestyle you like. I have two religions. I have two languages. I have two cultures. And I live in both, the same.” What’s the best thing about being an American? “Freedom of faith and freedom of speech, and of course, the free enterprise system. These are the best gifts that anyone could have. I don’t know if all Americans know how wonderful these gifts are because you’ve never been without |